I dyed some solid colors but then I decided to teach myself space dyeing. Since these affinity bracelets can use warps of different colors, I thought it would make sense to have one warp with a bunch of colors just for fun. It was successful. I surprised myself. And so much fun. Got out my paint brushes and painted the silk.
This is what I got:
|The dye pots!|
|My first attempt at dye painting.|
|Two dye painted warps cooling off in some water.|
|The solid colors and three painted silk warps drying on the porch.|
|Close up of my day’s work.|
When weaving back, go under the bead thread so it gets caught by the gold thread.
Weave the gold thread back.
Then string up some beads, and weave them using the traditional method of bead weaving. You want to catch the gold thread underneath the bead thread so it travels up the side of the piece until you need to use it again.
It’s really fun and simple. In no time you will have a finished piece!
Glue ultra suede to inside of cuff. We use E6000 but any glue that bonds fabric to metal is fine. You will be sewing the two lawyers together (the ultra suede and the tapestry) so this bond is not one that permanently holds the fabric to the cuff, but one that holds it in place while you sew up the edges.
Trim the edges of the ultra suede so that you have about an eighth an inch on all sides. Don’t worry if this is not perfect. When you sew the edges to the weaving all errors will be covered up. Do not over trim. Err on the wide of too much, not too little, fabric. While you are sewing you can trim a little more if need be. As in every case with this piece, more is better. Less can cause huge problems.
Put glue on back of weaving. Push the strands of yarn inward and try to calm them down with the glue. This makes glueing this piece to the cuff much easier because those stray ends will not be poking out all over the place .
Glue tapestry to cuff.
Start at a corner of the cuff. Pull your thread through the back of the tapestry to the front. Then start whip stitching the ultra-sued and tapestry together.
Once you are finished sewing the two edges together you can add your beads! Bury the end of a new thread inside the cuff. Pick up three beads. Whip stitch around the edge of the tapestry and the ultra-suede. Continue around the whole piece until finished. You can add more than three beads if you like. The goal is to cover the stitching and to make the piece looked finished and beautiful. However you get there is your own personal and lovely touch.
|Tila beads and 8/0 seed beads on a rust/orange silk warp.|
This next one was woven using http://www.mirrixlooms.com/7bagsofbeads.html. I created little blocks playing the matt beads off the glossy ones. Lots of fun.
This is how I finished the first bracelet. Just little rings of gold beads holding the two looped ends together. It’s adjustable. No need to tie. I also made little ropes. Took a matter of minutes. By noon I had accomplished everything you see here.
For my first piece I put eight warps on the loom in four different colors. I wove size 11/0 two cut beads and size 11/0 seed beads, alternating them in both directions so they fit together well for the first inch and a quarter. I then replaced the 11/0 seed beads with 8/0 seed beads to make the center a little wider. I finished it with another inch and a quarter of 11/0 beads.
To finish this piece, I twisted together four warps at a time to form ropes. I then made a peyote stitch tube which I sewed around the two strings. The bracelet is tightened by pulling on the ends of the strings while on your wrist. I made the tube tight. You cold also use a large bead (put it on before tying knots at ends of silk) or even use silk to wrap around the two ends.
The piece in total took about an hour to make. Every piece of making it was enjoyable. The frustration level was 0. This is a great piece for beginners and advanced weavers who want something fun, easy and satisfying to make. You could have a whole lot of friends with this bracelet!
For the piece below, I put on only six warps and wove exclusively with two cut 11/0 beads and 8/0 beads. I twisted all the silk warps together to form one rope. Again, I made a peyote tube as a closure. This one took even less time to make.
Of course my head is spinning with all the other possibilities. The concept: a beautiful, strong, mulit-colored warp that shows and is also part of the bracelet and even the clasp . . . has no limitations for one’s imagination. And best of all, it can be done on the Mini Mirrix (any Mini Mirrix).
Future ideas: including some gold thread, of course! This weekend.
Remember friendship bracelets? This is the grown-up version. Make lots in different colors, give them away, wear them, have fun! This project is super easy and so is the finishing (yay!). From warping to tying on my wrist, this took an hour.
Last weekend Claudia had a little failure using silk warp. This project uses the exact same warp, but because the warp is integrated into the piece, it worked perfectly.
We will be making a kit for this that will come with silk, pretty C-Lon colors (I wasn’t happy with the tan color I used), beads and some of our favorite bead weaving needles.
Here’s a brief overview of what I did:
|Piece just was not stable|
|Those yucky ends just were not going to work.|
I ripped it out and used a softflex warp instead. Piece turned out much better and is a keeper. It also will withstand the test of time whereas the silk piece felt like it could fall apart.
Selvages: The four sides of your piece.
Warp interlock: When the two ends of weft meet at a warp thread and wrap around that thread before changing direction.
Tapestry techniques we’re trying today: Pick and Pick, Wavy Lines, Hatching.
A short explanation of pick and pick and wavy lines:
Both of these techniques require that you alternate the weaving of two different color threads. In pick and pick, you alternate them one after another. In other words, thread one, thread two, thread one, thread two, etc.. Wavy line technique requires that you weave thread one twice, thread two twice, thread one twice, thread two twice. Pick and pick produces vertical stripes, wavy lines produces the effect of wavy lines. These two have in common the necessity to deal with the selvages in a slightly unusual manner. You will have to manage these two threads in a way that will guarantee the selvage thread has enough weft around it.In the first case, depending on the position of your threads you will have to wrap one of your weft threads around the selvage thread in order to guarantee complete coverage.
In the second case, the top thread will pull the second thread and by doing so the top thread will cover the selvage thread twice. These techniques take some time to master but are well worth the effort. If you’re feeling intimidated, it is by no means necessary to use these techniques in your cuff but we do suggest you try the hatching technique (described last) at the very least.
Pick and Pick:
In our example, we’ve used magenta and a golden yellow to begin our pick and pick. We alternate the colors thereby creating vertical stripes. In other words, weave the yellow thread once, and then the magenta thread once (making sure to change sheds every time you weave a new thread) then the yellow, then the magenta, etc… Follow the pictures for a visual of what we did:
|First line of yellow|
|Second line of magenta (refer to earlier in this post to learn how to deal with your edges). Remember to change your shed every time you bring a thread across.|
|Notice the beautiful vertical stripes emerging|
|Changing the color to purple|
Follow the pictures to see what we did:
|The first pass through with green|
The way hatching works: The two threads will come meet each other at any place within the tapestry you would like. The threads must be woven toward each other. They will then wrap around a common warp thread and head away from each other in the next shed. These two colors will dovetail into each other. A lot of other techniques can spring from this one including adding additional colors. For now and for such a small piece we suggest you keep it simple and just use two colors.
|The yellow and blue thread heading toward each other.|
|Wrap the two threads around the common warp, change sheds and head in opposite directions.|
|A clear visual of the threads wrapping around a common warp.|
|See how the dovetailing is beginning to reveal itself!|
|You can see how useful this technique can be!|
Before I begin the photo essay of my Seattle visit, I want to share this one idea I want to develop. It’s pretty simple. I ordered some suede string. I don’t know what to call it. Maybe it’s called lace. In any case, it’s fairly thin. My idea is, using the no warps kit, run the suede along the outside warp threads with a loop on one end (this will be a bracelet). While weaving the suede will get caught in the bracelet. Somehow I will turn the loop on one end and the two loose ends into a clasp. Maybe I will use some kind of bead on the non loop ends. It looks wonderful in my head, but I really need to try it.
|Capitol Hill where Mirrix Marketing and Elena live . . . and that is Sam.|
|Claudia with Squirm worm.|
|There we are again.|
|The big moment . . . Layna gets her Mirrix birthday gift.|
|Another day, another walk with Sam-I-Am|
|Tourist trap, but I love it: Pike Place Market|
|They throw the fish here. It’s hilariouos.|
|Future Bead patterns to follow.|
|Look at that view!|
|And that one from downtown Seattle.|
|Those two . . . so sweet!|
|Sam is always making friends.|
|Out of work actor!|
|Happy Claudia with Sam.|
|One last Sam and me picture!|