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The core of this thread is silk fused with real gold. Each ply is comparable in thickness to Coats & Clark's cotton/poly sewing machine thread.
These were purchased these from a very reputable weaving house in Kyoto that has been out of business since the 70s. Once this inventory is gone, it is gone. This is quite possibly the last real gold fused thread you will find.
This gorgeous gold thread is perfect for weaving, kumihimo, embroidery and any other craft that needs a kick of beautiful gold!
A rich combination of Toho and Miyuki seed beads primarily permanent galvanized finished (ie., the rich colors will not rub off or fade). Although the mix changes slightly over time, there will always be a broad mix of many different colors of beads representing a diverse range of color. We use these mixes for all our Tapestry/Bead Cuff and Affinity Bracelet Kits.
8" x 1 11/2" x 3/4"2 oz
Tapestry beaters are used to beat down your weft.
Made of hard maple and have a smooth Danish oil finish. The wooden teeth are set at five per inch.
Clip this add-on beam to the back of the bottom beam of your loom with the included C-Clamps and you increase the distance between the front and back warps by an inch and a half, providing a total of two and a half inches of space between the two layers of warp. This is perfect for those who weave wide bead pieces using the traditional method because you can easily get your hand behind the warp to hold the beads in place. It also works for tapestry weavers who want more space between the front and back warps.
*Note: The bottom beam does not increase the size of the shed, only the space between the two layers of warp.
Get any Mirrix Loom with a shedding device plus a bottom spring kit with 8, 12, 14 and 18 dent springs (the same as the springs that come with the loom for the top). Save around 30% on the cost of the bottom spring kits with springs with this great package!
Separate the top and the bottom parts of the loom (just slide the top part off). Older looms will have a bushing in the bottom of the copper tube with a flange at the bottom. Using a pair of flat nose pliers remove the bushing. Newer looms will have a bushing without a flange, so they do not need to be removed because the clips can slide off the copper tubes without doing so. In either case, slide off the old clips if you are replacing them and/or slide new clips onto the copper bars. Replace the bushing if it was removed. Put the two halves of the loom back together.