If you have a bottom spring kit, as I do here, start weaving your header. If you don’t have a bottom spring kit, cut a thread three times the width of your loom. Engage the shedding device, weave it to the threaded bar, wrap it around the threaded bar, change the she and weave it back to the other threaded rod. Tie the two ends tightly around the threaded bar. This will serve as a base for starting your weaving. Make sure the two threads make a straight line. Arrange the warps so that they are evening spaced at ten ends per inch. Then begin weaving a header.
Next, weave the left weft to the right but weave over one more warp. Do the same for the other three wefts. The goal is to create a diagnol shapes by weaving over one warp when you go to the left and reducing by one warp when you weave to the right.
Follow the pictures. Your left shape is gong to get bigger and bigger whereas your right shape is going to shrink.
At some point you can remove the guide threads as they won’t be necessary.
To end the left weft wrap around the end warp so it is hanging to the back.
Weave back all the other wefts.
Stick the ends of the other wefts to the back of the piece.
Insert a new silk weft.
Weave it for a few passes.
Add a second weft to the existing weft that is longer.
Weave until you run out of the first silk. Replace with a new silk weft to add to the existing weft.
Weave until you run out of one of the silk threads and replace with railroad yarn.
End the railroad yarn and replace with silk weft.
Weave a couple of rows of silk weft.
Welcome to Mirrix’s 7th Weave-Along!
The first step to weaving this fiber and bead purse is to decide how big you want your purse to be.
My piece will be just big enough to fit an iPhone and a few credit cards. If you are making this piece for another phone or for something else, you may want to make your piece a different size.
For example, if you plan to use this for a different sized phone, measure the width of the phone and add another inch to the width of the piece.
Then, measure the height of the phone, double that, add an inch and then add two and a half inches for the flap or whatever you decide you want your flap to be.
If your phone is 3 inches wide and 5 inches tall your piece would be 4 inches wide and 13.5 inches tall including the flap.
When you warp there should be about 10 warps in one inch. (So if your piece is 4 inches wide, you’d warp 40 warps across.)
My piece is warped 40 warps wide using a ten-dent spring. If you are using a twelve dent spring, you will warp the same amount of warps across but when you have finished warping you will loosen your tension slightly, spread your spring out where your piece is (until there are ten spaces in an inch instead of twelve) and then put tension back on the loom. This will make the twelve-dent coil act like a ten-dent coil.
My piece will be thirteen inches long (including the flap). To accommodate this, the loom is set at about 14 inches high (measure from the bottom of one beam to the top of the other).
Have you never warped before? Don’t worry, it’s easy!
For this project we will warp for tapestry with the shedding device. We have detailed warping instructions here: http://www.mirrixlooms.com/images/warpinginstructions/tapestry.pdf.
Chris Franchetti Michaels, (you may know her as beadwork.about.com‘s fabulous guide) recently released a new jewelry making book “Teach Yourself VISUALLY More Jewelry Making”. Now, I know this blog is dedicated to weaving on a loom, but I’m sure many of you are multi-talented when it comes to your crafting skills and I wanted to offer one reader a FREE copy of Chris’ book!
Spam will not be entered.
You must live in the continental United States to win
You must be at least 18 years old to enter
Oh, and you should probably check out Chris’s Affinity Bracelets she made on her Mirrix.
The supplies you need other than the warp and the beads include: C-Lon (or some kind of) beading thread, a bead weaving needle, a tapestry needle and a scissors.
We used eight warps. You can use as many or as few as you’d like, but we like this number of warps for this particular weave.
Tie the end of threaded C-Lon thread to side bar of loom using a slip knot.
Weave one row of beads. Remove tied end from side bar and make half of square knot and pull so that the warp threads are arranged so that there is no space between the threads and the beads.
Trim weft tail.
Start the gold thread. We have used six strands.
Once you’ve woven six or so rows, trim the gold weft tail.
Weave another row of beads, burying the gold thread along the side of the piece.
Wasn’t that fast! We are almost done weaving. See how tight and GOLD this piece looks.
Close up of that magic gold thread.
We discovered a way to keep the piece from running all round when trying to finish the ends. Just use a nice big C-clamp and clamp the body of your piece to a table edge. Works great. Do not break asn beads though. You will notice that the piece we are finishing is not the one that was on the loom. The finished piece uses size 11/0 seed beads.
Tie over hand knots in half the threads. Use your tapestry needle to push the knot toward the base of the piece.
We have braided our ends instead of making roes.
Make a peyote tube for closing. Instructions for this are in Affinity bracelet One tutorial.
Now it’s time for you to explore your bead stash and make up new design to share with us!
So let’s begin with our first Affinity bracelet. This is so much fun to weave and even to finish!
We have used to colors of hand-painted silk. Each “color” actually contains about four or five colors, so this is going to turn out to be a rather rain-bowish piece because we will be using the same silk for he weft. We have put a total of eight warps on the loom, which means the rows that contain 8/0 seed beads will contain seven beads. Note that there is no need to use a spring because the first row of beads will create the warp sett and will continue to keep the sett correct as you add beads. Plus we’ve found that even if you don’t add a lot of beads, the selvedges tend to stay straight as long as one is careful to not tug too hard when bringing the silk weft through the shed.
Our bracelet weaving is going to be 4 1/2 inches long. The silk ends and clasp take up quite a lot of space. You want the weaving part to curve around your wrist leaving a couple of inches of space on the back. The great thing is you don’t have to be exact about this. If your piece is a little too short, it will still look fabulous. The silk warp ends are beautiful too.
|Warped 8″ loom ready to go. You want to leave a lot of extra warp on either side of the piece. We suggest about six to seven inches. This warp will become part of the piece and will not be “loom waste”.|
|Close up of all those gorgeous silk colors.|
|Tie your bead thread to the side bar with a slip knot.|
|Pick up seven 8/0 seed beads and place behind and in between the warp threads.|
|Sew back through the beads but behind the warp, thereby attaching the beads to the warp.|
|Pull tightly so that the beads are snug against one another.|
|After adding a few rows of beads, thread the other end of the bead thread that was attached to the side bar and sew it half way through the bottom row of beads, knot around a warp thread, and sew through the beads to the end of the row. Trim end.|
|Begin a row of silk weft by threading your tapestry needle with the silk and weaving under the first warp, over the second warp, etc. until you’ve reached the end.|
|When you weave back going under the threads you went over and over the threads you went under, remember to catch your bead thread inside your silk weft so that it will travel up the piece until you use it again.|
|A few rows into weaving our silk weft.|
|Another visual of how to catch that bead thread!|
|The yarn just sings with nice color changes!|
|Trimming the weft end. Amazing how I was able to hold a camera and do this at the same time!|
|Add another row of beads, this time catching your weft in the bead thread to allow it to travel up the side of the piece until you are ready to use it again.|
|Back to the silk using all the same techniques of burying the thread we have mentioned.|
|A nice visual of catching the bead thread. Look how neat the edges look.|
|Here we start a new silk weft thread the same way we started the last one.|
|Again employing the method of catching the weft tail and the bead thread to allow them to travel up the side of the piece.|
|Because we’ve used the second color of variegated silk, it looks like we’ve added a whole bunch of new colors.|
|Adding back the original silk weft color.|
|Almost there . . . our piece is going to be 4 1/2 inches long.|
|Our last row of beads. Sew part way through the row below, tie a knot around a warp thread and continue sewing through the beads.|
|Tying a knot around the warp thread.|
|Trimmed warp ends.|
|Our piece resting off the loom.|
|Weight one end of your piece so you can tie knots on the other end.|
|Tie the beginning of a square knot.|
|Snug the knot close to your piece.|
|Tie an overhand knot. Stick your tapestry needle in the knot and push the knot toward the base of our piece.|
|Once the knot is in the correct place, remove your tapestry needle.|
|An overhand knot in exactly the right place!|
|A bunch of (fuzzy) knots.|
|All the knots tied.|
|Weight one end of your piece. Take two pairs of paired warp ends and twist in the direction of the yarn causing them to over twist.|
|Then allow the yarns to twist back on themselves forming a rope.|
|Tie a knot leaving at least five inches between your knot and the base of the weaving.|
|Second two ties turned into ropes.|
|You can use a simple knot to attach your piece to your wrist or you can make a peyote tube out of seed beads and use that as a closure.|
|Beginning a flat piece of even count peyote: string ten 11/0 seed beads.|
|Pick up a bead and sew the second strung bead. Pick up a second bead and sew through the fourth bead, etc. until you’ve reached the end.|
|Keep doing this until you have a piece that snugly wraps around the silk ropes (photo of this a little later on). In this photo we’ve taken the tail end and sewed it back into the piece, forming a knot and continuing to sew into the beads.|
|Knotting the tail.|
|In order to be able to “zip” your piece you will need the two sides to be staggered.|
For really clear instructions on how to do peyote stitch, we recommend you visit the beadworkabout.com http://beadwork.about.com/od/beadingstitchtutorials/ss/flat_even_count_peyote.htm
|Just the right size and ready to tie on. You can use the same number of rows as above if you’ve used the Mirrix silk warp.|
|Wrap the tube around the ties and start zipping it together. Be careful not to catch any of the threads from the ties because they need to move freely underneath the tube.|
|Our finished tube!|
|Notice how one of the warp ends is too short. Well, last night the piece was left on a desk and Maia the cat thought it would make a great chew toy. She chewed off one of the ends. This bracelet is a keeper because we can’t give it away now!|
There she is: ready to wear and love.
Included in this kit:
-Enough size 8/0 permanent finish galvanized beads and magatamas to complete two bracelets
-A 30 foot spool of Metallics Soft Flex fine beading wire
-A bobbin of C-Lon beading thread
Selvages: The four sides of your piece.
Warp interlock: When the two ends of weft meet at a warp thread and wrap around that thread before changing direction.
Tapestry techniques we’re trying today: Pick and Pick, Wavy Lines, Hatching.
A short explanation of pick and pick and wavy lines:
Both of these techniques require that you alternate the weaving of two different color threads. In pick and pick, you alternate them one after another. In other words, thread one, thread two, thread one, thread two, etc.. Wavy line technique requires that you weave thread one twice, thread two twice, thread one twice, thread two twice. Pick and pick produces vertical stripes, wavy lines produces the effect of wavy lines. These two have in common the necessity to deal with the selvages in a slightly unusual manner. You will have to manage these two threads in a way that will guarantee the selvage thread has enough weft around it.In the first case, depending on the position of your threads you will have to wrap one of your weft threads around the selvage thread in order to guarantee complete coverage.
In the second case, the top thread will pull the second thread and by doing so the top thread will cover the selvage thread twice. These techniques take some time to master but are well worth the effort. If you’re feeling intimidated, it is by no means necessary to use these techniques in your cuff but we do suggest you try the hatching technique (described last) at the very least.
Pick and Pick:
In our example, we’ve used magenta and a golden yellow to begin our pick and pick. We alternate the colors thereby creating vertical stripes. In other words, weave the yellow thread once, and then the magenta thread once (making sure to change sheds every time you weave a new thread) then the yellow, then the magenta, etc… Follow the pictures for a visual of what we did:
|First line of yellow|
|Second line of magenta (refer to earlier in this post to learn how to deal with your edges). Remember to change your shed every time you bring a thread across.|
|Notice the beautiful vertical stripes emerging|
|Changing the color to purple|
Follow the pictures to see what we did:
|The first pass through with green|
The way hatching works: The two threads will come meet each other at any place within the tapestry you would like. The threads must be woven toward each other. They will then wrap around a common warp thread and head away from each other in the next shed. These two colors will dovetail into each other. A lot of other techniques can spring from this one including adding additional colors. For now and for such a small piece we suggest you keep it simple and just use two colors.
|The yellow and blue thread heading toward each other.|
|Wrap the two threads around the common warp, change sheds and head in opposite directions.|
|A clear visual of the threads wrapping around a common warp.|
|See how the dovetailing is beginning to reveal itself!|
|You can see how useful this technique can be!|
This week, we’re going to begin weaving our tapestry/bead cuff bracelet! I have some basic instructions (picture from a previous weave-along) with an additional video that we made that goes over warping, weaving a header, beginning to weave and adding beads to your weaving!
Weaving a Header:
(Note, before you do this, if you do NOT have a bottom spring kit, you need to weave one thread through, using the shedding device, and tie that thread onto each side bar. This will act to prevent your weaving from slipping down the loom.)
A header is woven before you start your piece to provide a strong base that will eventually be folded over during the finishing process. Weave your header with the same C-Lon cord (or other warp material) that you used to warp your loom. It should be between 1/3 and 1/2 of an inch of weaving.
Once the shedding device is put on the loom, just engage the shedding device (the shedding device raises half the warps) and place your weft between those warps. (When you are doing this, make sure your weft ends face the back of the piece, this can be accomplished either by wrapping your end around so it faces back or by starting your weft in the middle of the piece.) Then, change the shed by moving the shedding device into the other position (and therefore raising the other half of the warps) and weave through again.
There are many different tapestry techniques you can use when weaving a cuff, but if you are a beginner you may want to just begin with straight lines. One of the difficult things about weaving tapestry is that there is a tendency to “pull in”, which means you pull your edges in too tight making the edges (or “selvages”) of the piece not straight. This piece makes keeping your selvages straight easy, both because it is thin and because the rows of beads help space the piece.
Next, (making sure you remembered to change sheds) place the beads on the silk between the spaces in the warp threads. They should fit exactly (this is why it is important to have the ten dent spring… spacing matters a lot when you are using beads in tapestry). Then, continue weaving with the same thread.